Start with the needle system required by your machine. Then choose the point type for the fabric structure and a size suitable for the thread and layers. A needle that fits the clamp is not necessarily the correct system.
Use the machine and needle manufacturer’s charts. A universal, stretch, ballpoint, jeans or embroidery needle differs in more than the number on the packet. Do not use one size score to override a required point type.
Test on a scrap with the same layers and thread. Check skipped stitches, puckering, thread damage and holes before sewing the project. Re-thread and check installation as well as size; not every fault means a larger needle is needed.
For a concrete sourced example, see the cotton-fabric needle map . For stretch fabric, compare universal and stretch needles . Buy a small assortment appropriate to the machine before committing to bulk needles.